Mountaingirl

Intro to Ice

Mandatory:
-Insurance (covering ice climbing in an alpine environment)
-Harness
-Helmet
-Technical Ice axes (that is, curved shaft and dropped pick, with or without leashes is fine)
-Crampon compatible “B3” boots - Plastic boots are OK, or those similar to La Sportiva Nepal Extremes
-C3 Crampons, mono-point or vertical point orientated is preferred over horizontal front points
-Compatible anti-bott (plastic or rubber plates that fit your crampons to keep them balling up with snow)
-2 Slings (dyneema or similar) suitable for cow-tails etc
-2 prussics (made from a loop of 6ml-8 ml cord- we can help you make it if you give us your cord.)
-3 screwgate carabiners
-personal belay device - make sure the device is suitable for ice lines and thin ropes- The new Petzl Reversos (the ones with a ridged edge) and Black Diamond XP or BD Guide type devices are good, or an ATC will do. No gri-gris or smooth braking-edged Reversos please!
-Several pairs of warm socks- often a thin pair under a warmer looped-wool pair works well. (Socks that make your boots too tight will just make your feet really cold! Don’t bring cotton, please.)

Optional:
-Thermals for top and legs (wicking and warm is best- like thin wool Icebreakers or similar- not cotton!)
-Waterproof (or very good water-resistant) trousers
-Gaitors (Breathable and snug is best; really for if your trousers bag a bit around your ankles or are not made of a very sturdy fabric- it’s easy to catch a crampon on them and either trip up or tear a big hole in them.)
-Warm fleece x2
-Water-proof or water resistant jacket
-Puffa Duvet jacket or Gillet ( They’re often too warm to climb in, but if they are small they are great for keeping warm at belays - especially if you have a small stuff sac, and they are good for hanging around in the cold)
-Thermos for hot drinks
-Warm hat (wool or warm fleece -like windstopper- with a tight weave, that cover your ears are best; make sure it fits under your helmet!)
-Sun glasses
-Goggles
-Blister kit
-Headtorch
Whistle, compass, map (not strictly necessary, but it’s a good habit to always have it.)
-Gloves- If you have a system that works, stick with it, otherwise:
Light liner pair of gloves
-Warm waterproof gloves that pad your knuckles
-Any extra pairs or mittens are good for walk-ins (if they have very good grip, they can be worn for belaying)

(N.B. The right glove system can make an ice climb fun and comfortable, the wrong system can make it extremely uncomfortable! Everyone eventually finds a system that works for them. We usually use a light ice climbing pair (like the Cloudveil womens ice glove) that is dextrous and padded for climbing. Often, with thick gloves, one grabs the axes too hard and cuts off blood flow, and gets colder hands. Then we also have a pair of grippy warm mits or gloves that we keep warm in the chest of our jacket while we climb - the harness over your jacket keeps them from falling out the bottom of your jacket- and use those at the belay. Then we swop according to whether we are climbing or belaying. We always reccommend an extra emergency pair too, in case one pair gets too wet and cold. Mountaingirl has some extra pairs that we can lend out but we have limited stock.)

-Ruc-sac (35l, is plenty big enough. Additionally, a small, light, well fitting pack that holds water, extra gloves, food etc., is very useful for multi-pitches. The Lowe Alpine Attack is a good example.)
-Sunscreen
-Waterbottle
-Camera
-Lunch (can get in supermarkets here)
-Personal Toiletries and Medications
-Clothes for around town (the sidewalks can get wet, snowy, or muddy in winter.)
-Pen and paper for evening lectures